Walkabout through South East Asia, continued
Bangkok
Getting There
It was touch-and-go, but our plane did arrive on-time in Atlanta. This was important, as 1) our luggage was not checked through to Bangkok, so we had to collect it, then schlep it (a 40-minute shuttle bus ride) to the International terminal; and 2) I was in a wheelchair, having messed up my knee five days before. But we made it on time.
The flight, on ballyhooed Qatar Airlines, had a stopover in Doha. Business class was luxurious: Excellent comfort for sleeping, wonderful wines, though mediocre food. The over three-hour layover was spent in their amazing lounge. We started that off with Bloody Marys(! Alcohol-free Qatar makes an exception in its airport).
We arrived Friday morning, January 17th. Bangkok is 12 hours ahead of US Eastern Time. Our hotel, the Riva Surya, is quite nice: modern, located on the river with a good view, and within walking distance of the major sights. My knee was feeling a great deal better, so after a much-needed shower we headed for the Grand Palace.
And I promptly fell for a classic tourist scam.
Wat Arun
A friendly-seeming guide told us the Palace was closed (not quite true) because of a big buddhist celebration (true), so he suggested a cruise that would take us to the flower markets and Wat Arun. The cruise took us on a long tour of the canals (which we had seen 3 1/2 years before, finishing at Wat Arun alright, but it cost us about three times the going rate. Wat Arun, though, is definitely worth seeing: brilliant white, decorated with colorful glazed ceramics, some of it actual dishes and artfully broken pottery.
The Grand Palace
We took a two-Baht ferry across the river to the Grand Palace where we joined a huge crowd entering from the North side. I enjoyed seeing the Palace again, and on our own. With no guide, I was able to stop and sketch.
Khao San road
I had been bugging Mary to visit Khao San road since our last visit. she finally agreed. 410 meters long, its fame belies its size. Now it’s less of a backpackers’ headquarters than a tourist attraction and ‘party central’ for young people. We walked from the Macdonald’s(!) at one end to the Burger King at the other, tasting the pad Thai at each end. nearly as good as Sabrett’s (in other words, not so good). Mary claims the food used to be delicious, but she was happy to reminisce, pointing out places she used to stay, back in the day.
Chatuchak Market
On Saturday the 18th we decided to venture out to see Chatuchak Market, one of Asia’s largest. It’s about a 20-minute ride out toward the airport, 150 Baht by cab. It is truly huge; reminds me a bit of Ceasar’s [sic] Bay in Bensonhurst, Brooklyn in terms of layout, but probably four times as big! Here you’ll find lots of clothing, home goods, and tchotchkes; some surprisingly nice art. It looks like there are wholesalers here for the kinds of things you’ll find in tourist shops. One big difference: the snack bars are way more interesting than the ones in Brooklyn!
The New Khao San
On our quest for good street food within walking distance of our hotel we stumbled on Rambuttri Village. It’s a little area near Khao San Road, but has more of that trekker vibe that Mary talks about from her walkabout days—cheap but good food and drink, guest houses, curbside massage spots. Funky and fun!
Summing Up Bangkok
I’m not going to pretend to be an authority, but my impression is that Bangkok is a forward-looking city with hustle: skyscrapers, smart phones, shiny taxis; the streets don’t smell bad, like 3 1/2 years ago.
Despite the hustle, there is real civility. Cars will stop for pedestrians crossing the road, for example. and it is nostalgic, displaying respect for its royalty, taking remarkable care of its temples and monuments, blending old styles of building with new. I enjoyed revisiting it.
Next stop, Khao Sok National Park.