May 14, Huahine

Huahine is actually two islands, joined by a sand spit at low tide, “Big Huahine” and “Little Huahine,” now linked by a bridge. Like other Society Islands, it is mountainous and particularly lush, sometimes referred to as “Huahine the Beautiful.” We were told that Hawaii was actually named after this island and that Tahitians like to come here to relax. Where Raiatea is noted for efforts to preserve Polynesian culture, Huahine is noted as the island with the largest number of archaeological remains.

In the morning we both set out on different excursions. Mary’s took her to a resort for a swim, and a tour where the guide pointed out how you could eat off the land. I went on a tour that focused on history. We saw a 400 year old fish trap, for example—a structure made of a large V-shape of stones along the bed of a shallow river— and visited a number of the marae, like the ones I saw on Moorea.

Marae that extends into the water — This unusual marae on Huahine extends into the water of its lake

Like so many tourist excursions, there’s an angle. Many of the ones in Polynesia had a stop at a black-pearl shop. (In Turkey I understand that all tour operators must include a stop at a carpet shop.) I successfully avoided those. My Huahine tour stopped at a vanilla farm. Actually kind of interesting. They’re very proud of their vanilla, and claim that a number of celebrity chefs insist on it. Well, I tried kampot black pepper when we were in Cambodia, and we love it, so I bought some beans.

The Tiki

I was hoping there was more of an archaeological presence, perhaps of a tiki. There were none on Huahine, and (jumping ahead a little here) on Tahiti two stone tikis from pre-contact times. But they were both emasculated. There was a tiki at the entrance to our hotel on Moorea. Sort of squared off and modern-looking, but at least he was intact. Got me wondering: what’s more authentic? Old and robbed of its symbolism, or modern and true to that symbolism? What would Tihoi, back in Raiatea say? I know what the new curator of American tribal art at NYC’s Metropolitan Museum of Art would say. Just look at the new exhibit there called “Water Memories.”

A modern looking tiki sculpture — This modern tiki seems more traditional than the existing old ones

That evening the crew put on a show, a Windstar tradition. Thoroughly enjoyable: charming and fun.